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Disc-Brake Conversion: Installing New Brakes and Lines
- Installing the New Brake-Rotor, Caliper and Lines
With the old front drum-brakes removed, the new caliper brackets installed and the bearings and seals installed in the rotor assembly, work can now begin installing the new disc-brake assembly onto the vehicle. This includes the brake rotor and caliper. New brake lines will also be installed.
- Safety Alert:
Always wear eye protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools.
- Safety Alert:
If you work on brakes using air-tools, there will be considerable amounts of brake dust released into the air. It's important to wear safety glasses and a dust-mask.
- Steps:
- Before putting the new rotor in place, be sure that the spindle is well-lubricated.
- Carefully fit the rotor assembly onto the spindle. Install the outboard bearing, washer and nut. To properly adjust the wheel bearing, tighten the nut until the bearing touches the washer, then spin the rotor and work the nut back and forth. This will help seat the bearings properly.
- With the bearings adjusted, install the cotter pin into the nut to hold everything together. Bend the end of the cotter pin over, and trim the length so that it just reaches the end of the spindle.
- Next, install the dust cap. Lubricate the dust-cap's O-ring, then position the cap and gently tap it down securely with a plastic hammer.
- At this point, it's a good idea to wipe down the newly installed rotor with some brake cleaner to remove any grease residue. If grease is left on the rotor, it could contaminate and ruin the new brake pads. Be sure to wipe down both sides of the rotor.
- There's a little assembly involved in getting the caliper ready for installation. The brake line attached to the caliper mounts with a hollow bolt that has a hole in the side and the end. This allows the brake fluid to pass from the line, through the bolt into the caliper. Install the provided sealing washer onto the bolt, then place the bolt through the opening at the end of the brake line. Install the second sealing washer on the other side of the bolt. This seals both sides of the hollow bolt to prevent leaks later on.
- With the seals in place, attach the end of the line to the caliper and tighten it down with a small wrench.
- Tips:
- There are spacers on the caliper that will need to move freely. If the spacers are stiff or unable to move freely, the brakes may drag. Check the spacers to make certain they can move easily. Press them all the way in for initial installation with new pads.
- Place the caliper gently over the rotor, and let it rest there as you get the fasteners ready to secure it in place.
- Place some disc-brake caliper lubricant on the caliper pins, then insert them through the holes in the bracket and caliper to secure the caliper in position. Use a ratchet wrench to snug the pins down.
- Make sure that the bracket that attaches the brake line to the chassis is free of debris. (You may need to clean it with a wire brush.) Once the bracket is clean, slip the line in place and secure it with the clip.
- Important:
The end of the line should be plugged with a plastic cap (or covered with a rag) during installation to prevent debris from contaminating the inside of the line.
- The metal portion of the old brake line attaches to the metering-proportioning valve. Locate the upper end of the metal line, disconnect it using a small wrench and remove the metal line.
- The old metal brake-line was custom bent to fit the vehicle. The new line included in our kit is straight. Some careful bending will be required to approximate the bend and fit of the old line. We used the metering valve from our brake kit to hold the line as we carefully bent it by hand.
- The new line was compared to the old one to ensure that the length and bend-configuration would allow a proper fit. A small tubing cutter was used to trim the metal line to the proper length.
- The ends of the metal line also need to be flared. First, slide the new connector fitting onto the neck of the tube.
- With the connector on the line, use a flaring tool to flare the end of the line. Flaring tools are available from parts stores, and typically cost around $25. Select the proper sized opening for your line, clamp the holder down securely, insert the correct adapter into the line and begin tightening. In our case, we were required to flare both ends of the metal line.
- With the connector in place, and the line properly bent flared, install the new line to replace the old one, connecting it to the same location on the metering-proportioning valve. You may need to do a little more bending to achieve a perfect fit.
- With the metal line installed, remove the cap from the brake line at the bracket and connect the metal portion of the brake line to the hose portion
- Note:
The steps in this automotive procedure are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type of brake-conversion kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.
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