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Master Cylinder Installation
Fit the plunger rod right in to the boot.
Insert your bolts.
For the hydraulic fitting, put the main washer through the banjo fitting and position the other washer as it goes through
Tighten the hydraulic fitting down just enough to crush the washers. Then, tighten the mounting bolts evenly to about 25 pounds of torque to secure the master cylinder.
Attach feed wire (be careful, this could be hot), and the receiving wire goes back to the brake lights.
Metal Break Tubing
If you need to replace your brake lines, you don’t have to order them. You can save yourself a lot of money and go to your local automotive parts store and buy brake lines for about $1 a foot. You can bend the metal, and flare it yourself.
There are two inverted flare nuts, a big one and a smaller one. The small ones are the ones you will use on cars from the 1930’s. Take the larger one off and replace it with the short one.
Using a tubing cutter, place the tube in the groove between the two rollers. Spin the tubing cutter around the tube and tighten as you go. You should have a good, clean break.
Before flaring the end, install the new short nut thread out.
Set your tubing flaring tool to a 1/4 inch and walk the tubing through with just a little showing. Clamp down so it can flare. Turn the flaring tool around and the cone is going to be driven down in to the end to flare.
Use your bending tool to bend as much as needed
Note :
This automotive restoration procedures is a Classic Car Restoration.
These are general guidelines for restoration procedures on this particular make and model of vehicle, and for the level of restoration selected for this project.
There may be variations in procedures depending model, condition of vehicle, level of restoration undertaken and the types of replacement parts or upgrade kits selected.
Always follow proper safety Note, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with any replacement parts or kit that you select.
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