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Repairing a parking-lot dent in a car (or any painted metal, such as siding or storm doors) is a fairly simple process that, at minimum, will prevent or at least delay rust damage that is inevitable when a paint finish or rustproof coating is marred. With patience you can achieve entirely professional results when filling the dent to match the original contour. After the dent is filled, you may either apply a new finish yourself or have it done professionally. Just be warned that it is very difficult for a do-it-yourselfer to achieve a good result (one in which the repainted area will not be noticeable) with spray-applied auto finishes. Painting repaired metal siding or storm doors, in which paint is applied with a roller or brush, is a routine do-it-yourself task.]
Equipment Needed:
- Electric drill
- Plastic squeegees
- 1/8-in. dia. twist drill bit
- Perforated file (Surform tool)
- Dent puller
- Rubber sanding block
- Hammer
- 80-, 100-, 120-, 180-, 220-grit abrasive papers
- Disc sander or sanding disk drill attachment
- Coarse-grit sanding disks
- Newspaper
- Masking tape
- Tack cloth
- Sandable metal primer spray
- Acetone
- Auto-body glazing putty
- Auto-body filler
- Pull the Dent: Drill a hole at the deepest point of the dent and screw in the tip of the dent puller. Slam the sliding weight back against the handle of the tool to pull out the dent. If you pull the metal too far out, tap it back lightly with a hammer so it does not protrude above the surrounding surface. Larger dents may require additional holes and pulling.
- Grind off Paint: Plastic filler will not adhere to paint or very smooth surfaces, so you must remove all paint and roughen the bare metal in the dent and the area immediately surrounding it. Use coarse sanding discs on either an electric disk sander or a disk-sanding attachment for an electric drill. Remove sanding dust with a tack cloth and wipe with acetone just before moving to the next step.
- Apply Filler: Standard auto-body filler is a two-component material that requires measuring and mixing a hardener into the polyester resin. Follow directions carefully, mixing only the amount that you need, and work quickly because the material cures fast. Using firm pressure and a plastic squeegee sold for this purpose, slightly overfill the dent with filler.
Tip:
- Never apply filler in a single coat more than 1/4 inch thick. Allow material to cure completely between coats.
- File to Rough Contour: When the filler is fully cured (see label for curing times), use a perforated file such as a Surform tool to shave off excess material and restore the original contour. If filing reveals areas that require more filler, just repeat the previous step and file again.
- Sand: Using a rubber sanding block and coarse sandpaper, continue to smooth the repair until it perfectly matches the original contour. Continue sanding to smooth the surface, including several inches into the surrounding original finish, using progressively finer-grit abrasive papers up to 220 grit.
- Prime: Mask off any unsanded areas surrounding the repair with newspaper and masking tape. Then spray-apply a sandable metal primer to the exposed surface. When the primer is completely dry, sand with 220-grit sandpaper, paying particular attention to feathering the edges into the surrounding area.
- Apply Glazing Putty: Apply auto-body glazing putty with a plastic squeegee to fill any remaining fine scratches and other minor imperfections. Reprime and sand with 220-grit abrasive. The surface is now prepared for final do-it-yourself or professional sanding/finishing. Apply the primer in two or three light coats rather than one heavy one. Hold the nozzle about 12 inches away from the surface and move the can back and forth across it.
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