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Parts and Accessories
Acrylic Subwoofer Enclosure Box Panels
- Materials
- 10" subwoofers, 3/4"-thick transparent acrylic, precut to fit your design
- Speaker wires, Terminal plates, Wire connectors, Straight-edge, Syringe applicator
- Measuring tape, Pencil, Jig saw, Several fine-tooth jig-saw blades
- Drill and bits, Hole saw, Clamps, Masking tape, Methylene-chloride acrylic glue.
- Box Panels and Construction
- For this upgrade, we selected 10" speakers and opted for a sealed-box design.
- The acrylic we used was 3/4" thick, and we had it pre-cut to our dimensions at a plastics shop. You'll need perfect finished cuts for the box pieces, so make sure the person who cuts your acrylic understands your needs so they can make the appropriate cuts. Let the pros at the shop make these precision cuts.
- Keep the protective paper that comes on the acrylic in place until you've completed construction of your box. The paper will protect the acrylic from scratches and nicks during assembly.
- For the proper sound in our vehicle, the recommended volume for each enclosure is 0.8 cubic.
- As seen in the wood mock-up, the two big pieces for this design are the top and the bottom of the box. The three small pieces are the side and the center division for the two chambers . There's also a front and a back.
- Check all along the joints for a tight fit. In order for the cement to work correctly, all of the edges need to be finished and fitted together perfectly.
- If everything looks right, set the top panel on a piece of scrap lumber to prepare for drilling the speaker holes.
- Use a pencil and straight edge to mark a line down the center of the panel in both directions, and then divide each side in half vertically.
- Most speakers will come with a mounting template the size of the hole that needs to be cut in the baffle. Use your marks to center the template and trace around it to mark the speaker hole.
- Drill a 3/8" hole on the inside of the line to start the cut. Acrylic is fairly easy to crack, so try not to apply any pressure to the drill. Just take it slowly, and let the weight of the drill drive the bit.
- After drilling the starter hole, use a jigsaw to cut out the speaker hole.
- Unlike traditional materials you can't see through, the acrylic will show the inside of the speaker cutouts. Leave a quarter-of-an-inch of space between the marked edge and your saw. Go slowly and keep pressure off the blade for a fine cut. Use a variable-speed jigsaw and sharp bi-metal blades to keep things under control. Finish the hole in a second pass for a cleaner cut.
- Once the speaker holes are cut, carefully drop the speakers into place to mark the mounting holes.
- Mark each hole with a pencil.
- Drill the mounting holes slowly with minimal pressure on the drill until the drill bit pierces the bottom surface.
- Drill the rest of the speaker mounting holes the same way.
- Acrylic is most likely to crack near the edges, so mount the terminals in the center of the side panels. Measure and mark lines in the center going both directions, and then use a hole saw to drill the holes.
- When the outer blade is almost through the backside, flip the piece over and finish the hole from the back.
- Drop the terminal into the hole to mark the mounting locations, and then pop it out and drill the mounting holes in the same manner that was used for the speaker mounting holes.
- Repeat the terminal hole drill procedure for the opposite side, and the box is ready to assemble.
- Use masking tape to hold the pieces in place while gluing them together. Place the masking tape around all four sides of the bottom panel with about three inches of excess hanging over each edge.
- Flip the bottom over and remove the protective covering from the panel. This piece will be the inside of the box.
- Next, peel the cover off of both sides of one of the large narrow side panels and set it on top of the bottom piece. Align it with the edge and wrap the tape up onto the side of the panel.
- Do the same thing with both of the side panels that will house the speaker terminals. Check to make sure that the ends are perfectly lined up as you set each piece into place.
- Position the middle partition and balance it in place.
- Place the front panel into position.
- Measure the exact distance for the center of the box and position the middle partition correctly before taping it down.
- To complete the box, place the speaker plate into position. Align the sides so they are flush with the top and tape the sides to each other first. When all of the outside corners are secure, tape the top to the sides.
- To finish up, reach inside the box and secure the inside of the speaker plate against the sides of the box. When all of the pieces are taped down, double check that all of the joints are true. You're now ready to glue the panels together.
- Note: :
- Always wear eye protection and ear protection, and follow proper safety Note, when working with power tools or pneumatic tools. Also wear eye protection any time you are working underneath a vehicle.
- In the segment that follows, Andrew secures the speaker-enclosure's acrylic panels with a special gluing technique and wires the amplifier to the new speakers.
- Important :
These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of upgrade-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and Note that come with your kit or replacement parts.
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