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Parts and Accessories
Fuel Injectors, Pt. 2
- Materials :
In addition to standard automotive-mechanic's tools (wrenches, ratchets, extenders, screwdrivers, nut-drivers, torque wrench, etc.), tools and materials used here include:
- Mopar Stage-1 kit, including:
- Set of four 527-cc/minute fuel injectors
- Mopar performance power-trained control module
- Vacuum caps
- Deep-well 5 mm socket
- Fire extinguisher
- Shop rags
- Safety goggles
- Note::
- Always wear eye protection and ear protection, and follow proper safety Note, when working with power tools or pneumatic tools. Also wear eye protection any time you are working underneath a vehicle.
- As a standard safety precaution, always disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable before you begin work on any electrical or mechanical components.
- Installing the Fuel Injectors
- With the factory fuel-rail removed from the engine, the new injectors can be installed. The new injectors are a direct replacement. Just slide off the retainer clip, and pull the factory injector out of the rail.
- Coat the o-rings at the upper end with a little clean engine oil before inserting them into the rail.
- Slide the retaining clip back on. You'll want to oil the o-ring at the nozzle end of each injector as well before sliding the new injectors into the manifold.
- Important: Make certain that the O-rings aren't cut or damaged as this could cause a high-pressure fuel leak.
- Remove the rag from the fuel injector holes and slide the new injectors into the openings in the manifold.
- Rock the rail gently to seat the injectors.
- Reinstall the fuel-rail retaining bolts.
- Plug the fuel injector electrical connections back in, and snap down the safeties making sure to attach the plugs in their original order.
- With the wires hooked up, you can attach the harness retainers back onto the fuel rail.
- Hook up the mass airflow sensor.
- Unwrap the fuel line, remove the vacuum cap from the fuel-rail fitting, and lock the fuel supply connection into place.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable.
- With everything hooked back up, it's important to pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks. Turn the key to the "ON" position, and listen for the fuel pump. It should kick on for a second or two, then shut off. Do that a couple of times, and then check all of the fuel connections under the hood for any leakage.
- If it all checks out, pop the fuel-rail cover back in place and start the engine.
- The Results
BEFORE the modifications the Neon SRT, with existing 3" exhaust and upgraded coil and plug-wires, measured a maximum horsepower of 224 with 258 pounds of torque.
AFTER the fuel-system upgrade, the horsepower increased to 237.3 with 269.3 pounds of torque. The boost also comes earlier, resulting in more than 250 pounds of torque in a range from 2500 to 4700 rm. (Before the upgrade, the curve beat 250 pounds only from about 2700 to 3000 rpm.)
The boost in horsepower and acceleration is easily enough to be discernible on the road.
- Important:
These steps in this automotive procedure are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type and brand of upgrade-kit you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and Note that come with your kit or replacement parts.
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