|
These steps are general guidelines that are applicable to most vehicles. With any particular vehicle, there may be procedures, specifications, settings, tolerances, components, etc. that are specific to that vehicle. There are also variations according to the type (and brand) of repair kit or replacement parts that you select. Always consult your vehicle's service manual when undertaking significant automotive repairs, and read and follow the manufacturer's directions and precautions that come with your kit or replacement parts.
Note:
- Always wear eye protection, and follow proper safety precautions, when working with power tools.
Note:
- Be sure to use jack stands and a jack that are rated for the weight of your vehicle, and follow proper safety procedures when jacking a vehicle.
- Check the alignment mark made earlier on one of the studs that secures the strut to ensure that you are aligning the strut assembly properly for installation. Reference the marked stud against the corresponding mark you made earlier on the body where the studs are installed.
- The plate need to be adjusted using pry bar to allow the studs to fit into the holes properly.
- Once the stud-alignment is complete, position the strut assembly from inside the wheel-well and move it into position so that the studs extend up through the holes in the proper alignment.
- Place the lock-washers and nuts on the three studs, but don't tighten them down fully just yet.
- Next, reinstall the upper control-arm. Position it from inside the wheel-well, so that the studs extend upward through their corresponding holes.
- From the top, position and tighten down the nuts to snug the strut assembly up to the body. You'll need an extender and swivel in conjunction with the ratchet-wrench to access and tighten these nuts.
Tip:
- In our case, the rear nut was difficult to reach. In order to install the nut, we used electrical tape in the socket to hold the nut secure as we put the nut into position and tightened it down.
- Re-attach the brake-hose to the strut. It may be helpful to refer to photographs you took earlier before disassembly to make certain that you are attaching the hose properly.
- Two bolts in front hold the hose to the spindle. Install the bolts, but don't tighten them down fully just yet. Rotate the spindle slightly to give better access to the rear clips.
Note:
- This is a good opportunity to inspect all of the parts in this area such as the spindle and brake line. If you detect any cracks or damage, replace the affected parts as a safety measure.
- The next part installed is the lower bracket-bolt. Since ours was somewhat rusted, we cleaned the threads with a wire brush before reinstalling. Ours was a fluted bolt (tapered at the end) to help prevent the bolt from seizing in the hole.
- Once the threads are clean, place the bolt through the hole and tighten the nut down partially using a hand-wrench. Then, use a torque-wrench to tighten the bolt to the proper torque specifications according to the service manual. In our case, the bolt was tightened to 47 foot-pounds.
- Next, torque-tighten the clinch-bolt to the proper torque-specs according to the service manual.
- Reinstall the stabilizer and bushing. (Replace the bushing with a new one if it was determined earlier that it was worn out or damaged.)
- Back up top, tighten the three bolts to tighten down the upper spring plate. Torque-tighten the plate to the proper specs. In our case, the plate was tightened to 28 foot-pounds.
- Finally, replace the dust-cap to finish the installation.
- Before replacing the tire and wheel, conduct a final check to ensure that the new parts are properly installed and stable. Rotate the assembly from lock to lock to ensure proper movement of the assembly.
- Reinstall the tire and wheel.
|
